A holiday pared down in attendance but rich in intention — where memories, music, and the company that arrives carry more weight than a crowded table ever could.
A small Thanksgiving relic from the years when our sons and their cousins staged covert ops to see who could reach the butter turkey first—and claim the honor of beheading it. We cherish that memory, even as our table has moved on from novelty poultry to the quiet luxury of Isigny Ste Mère Beurre d’Isigny. Some traditions stay, some melt away.
This year’s Snob Hill Thanksgiving was supposed to be a quiet, out-of-town affair at our Other Place in LoMo (lower Missouri) — just the two of us and the furchildren, well off the family grid. By pared-down, we meant only in headcount. The food, even for two, would still have been a magnificent feast. We weren’t escaping anything so much as stepping into the first day of what might become a new cycle — a different way of approaching the holiday altogether.
And then, as it so often does, life rearranged the seating chart. What we thought would be a table for two (plus a couple of hound dogs lurking for scraps) quietly expanded. Dad decided to join us — welcome news that felt right the moment he said it. Then a long-time friend, suddenly unmoored from her usual circle of gal-pals and nearby family, complimented our Facebook menu post. We replied, as we always mean it, “you’re always invited.” A few days later — the weekend before Thanksgiving — she half-apologized and then invited herself. Which, of course, was exactly the point. Our small table was now full. A Thanksgiving blessing, delivered in increments.
Over the years we’ve learned that the best gatherings, whether bustling or still, begin with our standing mantra: make it the best day, no matter who shows up.
The Murky Business of “Tradition”
The funny thing about traditions is that the real ones are rarely announced. They happen on their own timetable, without ceremony or proclamation. Deciding — or even noticing — when something becomes a tradition is murky at best. Can we ever truly know when a moment earns its “Because Its Tradition” seal of approval? Most first attempts don’t feel like traditions. They feel like experiments.
Take the year we handed out small journals to our sons — and to ourselves — to capture hopes and predictions for the coming year. We’d read about it in a magazine and pictured laughter, teasing, rediscovery. Instead, writing something meaningful on command proved harder than anticipated. The next year, the journals sat dejected and unopened at the bottom of a box with the decorations. When we found them again years later, someone snorted, “Oh, remember when Dad made us do that?” The laughter that followed was probably more memorable than anything we had written inside. The road to tradition is littered with these hopeful firsts that never earned their second time.
We sometimes wonder why Thanksgiving — the one holiday that keeps pulling us back to the page — continues to insist on being examined, remembered, and written about. Maybe it’s because nostalgia is a sixth sense on Snob Hill, guiding us toward the rituals that root us. Or maybe it’s because that Norman Rockwell ideal was baked deeply into us, and we’re still sorting out its meaning.
And yet, this holiday isn’t without its complications. Two years ago, a family member who will remain anonymous — unprompted and staring at their still-empty plate as though it were a historical crime scene — launched into a quiet but sweeping, tsk-tsking critique of Thanksgiving itself. They delivered a mumbled précis on whitewashed history, colonialism, genocide, the mythologizing of Pilgrims, the erasure of Indigenous voices, and the lingering stereotypes embedded in everything from school pageants to the green bean casserole. It was, in its way, impressively comprehensive — sentiments we could acknowledge, and perhaps even agree with, in a different setting — but it landed with all the subtlety of a fire alarm during grace. It felt, in the moment, as though they had hashtagged our holiday — and not in a good way.
Forks hovered mid-air. No one quite knew what to say except, perhaps, “pass the rolls.” If we believed in a kiddie table, they might have found themselves reassigned. And if the holiday were truly that objectionable to them, why show up at all? The moment was awkward, yes, but it also underscored something we already knew: Thanksgiving holds multitudes, and people bring their own meanings — and their own misgivings — to the table. And this holiday — among all the holidays we’ve lived through — is the one that keeps pulling us back to the page.
Both of us were raised with that Rockwell image — the big table, the perfect bird, the generational tableau. We absorbed it osmotically. But our current reality looks different. As the unified family Thanksgiving table gradually dissolved, the COVID years arrived — two seasons when we cooked the entire meal and then delivered it, standing back while masked relatives waved from porches. After that, as the table continued to shrink, we found ourselves operating a sort of culinary speakeasy — invitation-only, intimate, the care amplified rather than spread thin. Perhaps we’ve always loved the pursuit of a beautiful Thanksgiving more than the Rockwell version itself. And yes, we like having a hand on the tiller. Control isn’t everything, but it does season the stock.
Food Snobs? Hardly — But We Do Sweat the Details
At the risk of sounding like food snobs among the grateful — or the ungrateful — we aren’t. Our table has always welcomed comfort. We built the meal with intention, but never barred the door to beloved personal dishes. One mother swore by her Kraft macaroni and cheese, certain the grandsons adored her version. Its secret ingredient, revealed near the end of her life, was onion salt. Who were we to deny such tender alchemy? So we served it. Taste memory is its own cuisine.
That same mother was a devotee of sweet potato casserole, covered in igloos of marshmallows (natch), which, frankly, we consider an edible abomination. But did we show our disdain? No. We doubled down and made quite a show of landing the dish like a televised Apollo splashdown, though we did politely pass it along unscooped during its orbit of the table. More for Mom, we thought.
One nephew loved canned cranberry sauce, so we dutifully opened a can and plopped it onto crystal, its ridged aluminum imprint proudly intact. Everyone deserves a favorite at the table, however it arrives.
We were nearly embarrassed when another nephew (then in his early 20s), the one we’ve dubbed the sufferer of Clever Child Syndrome, became exasperated as we passed the oven-baked potatoes — a recipe of one of our mothers — noting that we had made his favorite. The clever nephew exclaimed, “Jesus, these are not my favorite. I said I liked them one time when I was a kid and now you serve them every year!” Well, yes, we did because we wanted to please. It’s okay to change one’s mind and taste buds, but that seemed overly insensitive. We can forgive the lapse.
Now that our table is smaller, we can shape the menu more closely to our own preferences. Mom’s mac and cheese and Sister’s salad had their place, and we honored them. But those were everyday foods. A festive feast, in our view, should lean into dishes you make only once a year — the ones that ask more of you and give more in return. That’s how we define a special meal — with an emphasis on special.
The Annual Playlist — Culinary and Otherwise
We love planning. Otherwise why would Thanksgiving begin to creep into our conversations in August? Every year, the ideas return like migrating birds — familiar shapes in refreshed patterns. Our Thanksgiving folder — an actual manila file labeled with menus, shopping lists, and emotional weather reports — has become a time capsule. Each year has its own playlist, its own folder, its own snapshot of who we were.
This year’s Thanksgiving has nudged us toward contemplating “last things” — not in sadness, but in clarity. We encountered the ecological term cage relic — the last surviving specimen of a species held in captivity. A humbling idea, but one that touched us. Some of our traditions feel like that: the last of their line, kept alive because we choose to keep them.
The Turducken That Never Was
Of course, one of us (we’ll let readers guess which) has long championed replacing the turkey with a turducken. The campaign began in the ’80s. But back when we hosted the whole family, a turducken would have landed like a turd. This was a clan that blanched when we introduced soup as an opening course — even in pumpkin-shaped tureens with individual lidded pumpkins. Half refused. Those refusers no longer sit at our table.
And soup is still served — though not this year, when the menu charted a different course.
A Quieter Rhythm
So this year, we take what comes. One son lives nearby, though he and his wife will be in Nebraska with her family. The other son lives in Los Angeles, and their rotation is fixed: one year with her family, one with her mother, one with us. Every third year, our table has a different vibe, with more stories, told faster and at a higher volume, and seconds of everything. And, yes, more than bit exhausting.
And yet writing Life on Snob Hill risks sounding insulated, as though our quirks are sngular. They aren’t. When we posted our menu on Facebook last week, a friend who almost never comments wrote: “Same here. Just the two of us.” His daughters and their partners also had other plans. It was a reminder that we’re not alone in this new landscape of rotating holidays and shifting tables.
The Menu
This year’s menu reflects that spirit — dishes we make only once annually, with joy and intention:
• Wild Mushroom and Prosciutto Turkey Roulade
• Skillet Cornbread Dressing with rosemary and sage
• Sweet Potato Biscuits
• Twice-Baked Cauliflower
• Green Bean Casserole
And yes, you read that right: a turkey roulade. Turkey has always been the least interesting part of the meal, but we’re not ready to retire it. We’ve tried it all — dry brines, wet brines, phyllo wraps, smoking. This year, we’re roulading.
Dessert, as always, holds court: Pecan Pie Cheesecake and Apple Stack Cake with Caramel Frosting.
Setting the Table
We used to spend cold, rainy November weekends driving through a nearby wildlife refuge, snipping bittersweet like guilty poachers and listening to George Winston’s Autumn or December. Music is its own seasoning. Nietzsche reminded us that “without music, life would be a mistake.” Thanksgiving without music would be something lesser. Winston sets the tone, John Denver warms the kitchen, and stadium rock keeps the pre-guest energy high.
We’ve never set the same table twice.Every table tells a story, and ours this year trades china for thrifted Thanksgiving plates — humble, right, and exactly enough. A few pumpkins, some cedar branches from our woods, and the smell of something warm in the oven stitch the moment together.
The Heart of the Holiday
Harold Bloom reminded us that art earns its power through beauty and imagination, not by drowning in context. Thanksgiving works the same way. We could annotate every dish — but the holiday lives in the tasting and the togetherness.
The magic lives in the hush when rolls emerge from the oven, the frenetic choreography of plate-passing, the gentle chaos of gravy boats and laughter. For a few hours, a table becomes its own tiny country, its borders drawn in linen and candlelight.
Bloom might warn against “the schools of resentment,” then take a second slice of pie. The meaning is in the moment, not the margins. On this day, context is gravy. Gratitude is what we taste.
Last weekend, an acquaintance wished us: “I hope you have the Thanksgiving you want.” A simple blessing, surprisingly resonant. We do feel nostalgia for Thanksgivings past, but resist over-polishing them. Not every gathering brimmed with harmony. And still — here we are.
And perhaps that’s the quiet reassurance threaded through this year: we’re finding our way, yes, but so is everyone else. Small tables, shifting plans, rotating holidays — none of it makes the day lesser. If anything, it makes gratitude feel shared.
This year, pared down as it is, might just be the Thanksgiving we want — a table that filled itself, a meal shaped by our hands, a quieter rhythm that feels exactly right. The kind of holiday that inspires one of those vintage postcards we love: Wish You Were Here.
This year’s Thanksgiving will be the best of them, for now — but we know next year will have its say.